This tutorial discusses using the X-Rite ColorMunki Display to calibrate screens which have no adjustability other than their brightness. This includes all Mac screens, and all laptops. It might also include cheap desktop screens with no buttons or menus to control their colour.

Special note:  If your ColorMunki software no longer seems to work, don’t panic!  Go to the X-Rite website to get the updated software called “i1Display Studio”.  You’ll find my instructions for i1D Studio here.

Before you begin, please make sure you’ve read this article first.


Part 1: Prepare and Install

Warm up

Make sure your screen has been turned on for at least half an hour before starting the calibration.

Check the site

I can almost guarantee that the disk that came with your device is out of date. So don’t even bother opening it – just go straight to the X-Rite site and grab the latest version from the “Software Downloads” section.


Don’t plug in the device yet. Install the software, and restart your computer if it asks you to.

Now you can plug the device into your USB port, then launch the ColorMunki software.

Part 2: Preferences

Immediately go to File>Preferences:


Mac users, please note, your Preferences might be in the Apple menu instead.

Here’s what it’ll look like:


The Tone Response Curve (1) should remain on 2.2 at all times. The ICC Profile Version (2) should be set to Version 2. Presently, Version 4 profiles are still a bit flaky on some computers, but Version 2 is robust.

Turn off both the checkboxes (3 and 4).

Choose the correct setting carefully in the Technology Type menu (5). If you get it wrong, it can mess with your results. If you’re not sure, check your invoice, or the manual, or google your computer’s specs.

  • CCFL: This basically means ” not LED”. Most older LCD screens will be CCFL, but newer ones are likely to be LED instead.
  • Wide Gamut CCFL: If you bought a wide-gamut screen, you’ll remember, because your wallet is probably still hurting. Most laptop and Mac screens are normal gamut, but check your paperwork if you’re not sure.
    (Please don’t mix up wide gamut with wide format. Wide format screens are … y’know, wide. 16:9 shape, or whatever. “Wide Gamut” refers to the range of colours they can show. If the salesman boasted to you about a “110% gamut” or “Adobe RGB gamut” screen, it means wide-gamut.)
  • White LED: This is the most common type of modern screens. If you know your screen is LED, it’s almost certainly white LED.
  • RGB LED: RGB LED screens are still pretty expensive and rare. If you’ve paid top dollar for one of these, you probably won’t be using the ColorMunki to calibrate it, to be honest.
  • Projector: This tutorial doesn’t cover projector calibration, sorry.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If the Technology Type says “No Entry”, it means the computer can’t detect the calibrator in the USB port. If you haven’t plugged it in already, do it now. If you have plugged it in already, it hasn’t been recognised yet. Try another USB port, or if that doesn’t work, try restarting your computer with the device left plugged in.  We’re told that the device won’t work in USB3 ports, so make sure you use a USB2 port.

Some people have reported that they had to restart their computer up to three times for it to finally recognise the device.

Once you’ve made the appropriate changes to the Preferences window, press Ok.

Part 3: Targets

Click “Profile My Display” …


… then immediately choose “Advanced”:


White Point

Set the White Point target to Native:


White Luminance

This is a setting that might take a few attempts to get right. I can’t tell you exactly what setting will suit you best, but I can tell you that the default setting of 120 is invariably too high.

I recommend choosing 100 the first time you calibrate.


After the calibration is complete, the first thing you’ll do is compare your prints, at which point you might find a lower white luminance is necessary. More discussion about this later.

Press “Next” at the bottom right-hand corner of the screen to continue.

Advanced Options

Turn off both the checkboxes on this page:


I haven’t tested these two functions, in part because I don’t believe they should be necessary. I feel it is much better to control the light you’re in, rather than rely on a calibrator to compensate for its shortcomings. However, if you are in imperfect light, you certainly might need to explore these two options.

Press “Next” again.

Part 4: Lights out

At this point, if you haven’t already, turn off the lights or pull the blinds, or whatever. Strictly speaking, the surrounding light shouldn’t matter, but it can’t hurt to be extra safe.

Part 5: Calibration

Tilt the screen back, rotate the Munki’s cover around, and use the counterweight on the cord to hang the sensor over the back, so it’s positioned roughly on the designated spot on the screen.


Click “Next” to begin the calibration process.

The brightness adjustment step

The screen will flash a few times as the ColorMunki takes some initial readings. Then it will pause and wait for you to adjust your screen’s brightness to get as close as possible to the White Luminance target you specified.

It’s very simple and logical. The goal is to get the yellow bar in the green zone. Just increase or decrease your screen’s brightness setting to get as close as possible to the target:


You can probably adjust your screen’s brightness using F keys on your keyboard. In some cases, you’ll need to use the slider in the Display control panel, and toggle back and forth between the control panel and the ColorMunki program. Needless to say, the F key option is easier.

Don’t be surprised if you can’t achieve the exact luminance target. In fact, it’s quite unusual if you can. Near enough is good enough. And if you can’t get it right on the money, I find it’s better to err on the low side, rather than the high side.

SPECIAL NOTE: It’s very rare, but some people have screens which can’t achieve a low enough brightness. Even with the brightess setting turned all the way down to zero, the yellow bar is still too high. If this happens to you, press “Back” to get back to the main screen, then go to File>Preferences and check the “Achieve display luminance value using video LUT’s” checkbox. Then commence the calibration again. Put your screen’s brightness as low as it can go, and the Munki itself will lower the brightness the rest of the way when it makes the profile.

Press “Next” to continue.

The colour readings

For a few minutes, the device will read a range of colours:


NOTE: Please wiggle your mouse every minute or so during this period. It’s probably completely unnecessary, but do it anyway. The last thing you need is for your screen to dim itself from lack of activity – that throws the whole calibration into a cocked hat, believe me. Of course, don’t let the mouse pointer go underneath the device – just keep it at the side.

Once the Munki has taken all its measurements it will return to the main window, at which point you can remove the device from the screen and turn its cover back into place.

Part 6: Save and evaluate the profile

Name it

Now it’s time to give your profile a name. Your naming convention isn’t vital, and you can do whatever you like, but I find that it’s handy to name it by the two targets you chose earlier. I calibrated my screen to a luminance of 80, so I’ve named my profile thus:


This way, I don’t have to scratch my head each month, trying to remember what targets I calibrated to last time. It’s right there in the profile name. And each time I recalibrate, I just over-write the old profile with the same profile name, so I don’t end up with a string of useless old profiles in my system.

(X-Rite persist in recommending that you put the date in the profile name. This is utter nonsense. There is no value in keeping out-of-date profiles on your hard drive, unless you suspect that your calibrator is failing.)

Once you’ve given the profile a name, press “Save”. It’ll take a couple of seconds, then tell you it’s been successful:


Set the reminder

Don’t skip this part. Check the “Remind me” box, and choose 4 weeks as the recalibration period:


If your screen is old and failing, or if you’re simply an incurable geek, you can set a shorter recalibration period. But for most of us, 4 weeks is fine.


The last page of the ColorMunki software is a “Before and After Comparison” screen, where you can look at photos of beautiful women in order to … well, just because it’s nice to look at photos of beautiful women, I guess. There’s no real purpose to this page, so press “Finish” and exit the software.


Part 7: Lights up

Turn your lights back on, or open the blinds, or whatever.

Part 8: The comparison

Now that the calibration is finished, it’s time to check the results, by comparing some prints. I explained this process on this page.

If you are satisfied that you have an acceptable match, then your work is done. You may begin editing, or go and have a beer, or something.

Part 9: Troubleshooting


If you find that your screen is brighter than your prints, then run the calibration process again, with a lower White Luminance target. For example, if you calibrated to 100 the first time, and you think it’s a little too bright, calibrate to 90 next time. Of course, if the difference is strong, then you’d choose 80 instead.

Conversely, if your screen is darker than your prints, then recalibrate to a higher luminance target.

Note: In the rare circumstance that the ColorMunki’s lowest brightness target of 80 isn’t low enough for your print matching, manually reduce your screen’s brightess to a satisfactory level, then recalibrate with “Native” as the White Luminance target. However, if this is necessary, I urge you to consider the light in which you edit, and brighten it if possible.


If you are unhappy with the colour of your calibrated screen … well, your screen itself doesn’t give you any flexibility, so we need to look to the calibrator instead.

But first, ask yourself if your calibration was as good as it could be. Was the device sitting perfectly flat against the screen? Was there too much light glaring on the screen? Was there any risk that the screen might have dimmed during calibration? If there’s any doubt in your mind about those questions, try a plain (careful!) recalibration.

At this point, please let me reiterate – have some tolerance. Calibration isn’t some kind of magic. It can never make ink on paper exactly match light coming from a screen. “Acceptably close” is what we’re aiming for.

White point targets

If plain recalibration doesn’t work, then you have to explore the only available avenue of flexibility – the white temperature targets.

Remember how we chose “Native” the first time? Well, now it’s time to try the other options.

If you feel your screen is too warm, try D65 first. Or, if you think your screen is too cool, try D55.

cm14I won’t lie to you – this could take a while. You might need to try calibrating on all four of the options before you find the most appropriate one. I wish I knew of a shortcut way to preview what they look like, but I don’t, sorry.

Advanced options

We’re in desperation territory here. Try one or both of the options on this page, and see if you can get better results:


I have no experience with these settings, sorry.

Part 10: If all else fails

If, after numerous calibration attempts, you can’t get a result you like, you have three options:

Contact X-Rite

They’re the experts, after all. See if they have a solution for you. Maybe you’ve got some kind of graphics card glitch, or something.

Lower your expectations

Choose the best calibration, and live with it.

New screen

If you’re working on a laptop, consider buying a good external monitor to run off it. General info about monitors here.

Part 11: Regular recalibration

After one month has passed, you’ll get the reminder to recalibrate.

When you launch the software, I recommend quickly going to the Help menu and checking for updates, and installing them if available:


Then, go ahead and run the calibration process as normal. I assure you that subsequent recalibrations will be faster and easier than the first time.