This tutorial discusses using the Spyder5Express to calibrate most desktop screens – that is, screens which have buttons and menus to control contrast, brightness and colour.
Before you begin, please make sure you’ve read this article first.
Part 1: Screen setup
Make sure your screen has been turned on for at least half an hour before starting this process.
Make sure you’re in good light. You’re about to make some preliminary comparisons between your screen and your prints, and viewing prints in dim light is a futile exercise. It needs to be bright enough, and white enough. Read this if you haven’t already done so.
Reset to factory defaults (first time only)
When you’re getting ready to calibrate for the very first time, you need to search the screen’s menu to find the setting that puts everything back to its starting point. Every screen is different, so I can’t tell you exactly where to find this function, but trust me, it’ll be there somewhere. It might be called “Reset Screen Defaults” or “Restore Factory Settings”, or something like that. You get the idea.
(When you’re doing subsequent monthly calibrations, this reset step shouldn’t be necessary. But never say never – some screens may need that “kick in the pants” each time, if they won’t recalibrate easily.)
Move the OSD
On a lot of screens, the OSD (on-screen display, ie the menu) is right in the middle by default. That’s no good, of course, because that’s where the calibration needs to take place.
Somewhere in the menus will be the controls for the OSD’s position. Find them, and move it over to one side, or down into a corner.
Adjust brightness to match prints
Compare your prints to your screen, and adjust the screen’s brightness to get an acceptable match. Remember, don’t hold the print close to the screen – it must be out to the side, so you have to turn your head to compare.
Please don’t agonise over this brightness step. Near enough is good enough.
If you’ve never adjusted the brightness of your screen before, it’s likely to seem horribly dim to you at first. Don’t worry, you’ll be used to it in no time at all, and you’ll wonder how you ever tolerated it so bright before.
Choose best colour setting
With your prints still in hand, it’s now time to find the best colour setting that your monitor offers. All monitors will have at least two or three colour presets – they’ll be called “Warm”, “Normal” & “Cool”, or “6500K”, “7500K” & “9300K”, or something like that. (Most will also have a “Custom” or “User RGB” setting, but we’ll try to avoid that complexity if possible.)
Pick the setting which matches your prints the best. If you’re in the lucky minority, you might find one that gives a really good match. But most of us simply have to accept the closest available setting, even if it doesn’t look perfect. Don’t worry, the calibration process will do the rest.
Part 2: Install software
Calibrators no longer ship with disks. That’s fine, because the disks always used to be out of date before we got them anyway.
So when you open the box, the first thing you see is a notice to visit the DataColor website to download the software. On that page you’ll see a video, which I encourage you to watch, because it will demonstrate the installation process.
I don’t anticipate you’ll run into any problems during this process. You’ll be guided through download, installation, plugging in the device, entering the serial number, and activating the software. Finally, the software will launch for you, in readiness for your first calibration.
Part 3: Setup
As soon as the software launches, choose Preferences from the Go menu:
Set the Recal warning for monthly, and turn on the “LCD Native” option, then press OK:
On the main Welcome screen, you can check all four boxes, because we already discussed these issues at the beginning of this article:
When you’ve ticked all four boxes, press Next.
I don’t know why this page even exists – there’s no difference in the calibration process either way that I can tell. Anyway, choose “Desktop”, then press Next:
SPECIAL NOTE: On every screen, on the right-hand side, there’s a handy help panel. It’s great, and if you want even more in-depth explanation, you can click on the link at the bottom:
Their help really is helpful, I’m very impressed with it.
Make and Model
As far as I can tell, this screen is only relevant if you chose to share your calibration data with DataColor. Anyway, go ahead and enter your computer’s details:
Part 4: Lights out
At this point, if you haven’t already, turn off the lights or pull the blinds, or whatever. For your best chance of accurate calibration, make your room as dark as possible.
Part 5: Calibration
Tilt the screen back, and use the counterweight on the cord to hang the sensor over the back, so it’s positioned roughly on the diagram on the screen.
Click “Next” to begin the calibration process.
For about 2-4 minutes, your screen will display a whole range of colours while the device reads and records them:
NOTE: Please wiggle your mouse every few seconds while calibrating. It’s probably completely unnecessary, but do it anyway. The last thing you need is for your screen to dim itself from lack of activity after a minute or two – that throws the whole calibration into a cocked hat, believe me. Of course, don’t let the mouse pointer go underneath the device – just keep it at the side.
Once the Spyder has taken all its measurements, remove it from the screen, and press “Finish”:
Part 6: Save the profile
On this screen, the Calibration Reminder period should already be set to “1 Month”, because you set it in Preferences earlier.
By default, the profile name field will automatically populate with your computer name, and “-1” at the end. If you allow this naming convention, it will add “-2” when you recalibrate next month, and “-3” the month after that, and so on.
I do not agree with this default setting. There’s really no need to keep old profiles from previous months. So I recommend dropping the “-1” off the profile name:
And each month, use the same file name and save over the old profile. It’s a simple measure to prevent clutter on your computer.
Of course, there’s no hard-and-fast rule about this. You can call your profile anything you like, as long as you remember what it was.
Once you’ve named it, press Save:
Next, you get a screen with a “Switch” button which allows you to compare your screen with and without its new profile. It’s fun, but fairly pointless, so don’t linger here very long.
Finally, press Quit to close the software.
Part 7: Lights up
Turn your lights back on, or open the blinds, or whatever.
Part 8: The comparison
Now that the calibration is finished, it’s time to check the results, by comparing some prints. I explained this process on this page.
If you are satisfied that you have an acceptable match, then your work is done. You may begin editing, or go and have a beer, or something.
Part 9: Troubleshooting
Even though you adjusted brightness before commencing, you might find that you’re not entirely happy with the brightness level you chose.
In that case, just re-adjust the brightness, then run the calibration again.
You might be thinking “Really? I have to recalibrate after tweaking the brightness?” Strictly speaking, yes. The calibration process creates a profile which is an exact description of the characteristics of your monitor at that point in time. If you adjust anything, the profile isn’t relevant any more.
However, if you only tweak ever so slightly, and you’re not a raging nerd about your imaging, then you can probably get away with it until next month’s calibration. Just don’t tell anyone I told you that!
If you are unhappy with the colour of your calibrated screen … well, the Spyder Express doesn’t give you much flexibility, I’m afraid.
This is the crux of the matter. When you spend a small amount of money, you get a small amount of calibration control. Therefore, this “Troubleshooting” section is fairly short, because your options are limited.
First, please let me reiterate – have some tolerance. Calibration isn’t some kind of magic. It can never make ink on paper exactly match light coming from a screen. “Acceptably close” is what we’re aiming for.
The first thing to do is recalibrate. Exactly as before. Make doubly sure that the device is sitting perfectly flush against the screen, so that no light can leak in. And make the room even darker than last time. In my testing I found that this device is incredibly sensitive to surrounding light.
And remember to move your mouse occasionally during the readings, to prevent screen dimming.
2. Try other screen settings
If plain recalibration doesn’t work, then you’ll need to try another colour preset on your screen. If you think the calibration result is too warm, try a cooler setting, or vice versa.
Then calibrate again, and see if you’re closer to a match.
There’s one final avenue available to you for fine-tuning the result. Go back to Preferences …
… and turn off “LCD Native”:
Then calibrate again. To be honest, this didn’t make a lot of difference when I tested it, but this is the only variation available on the Spyder Express, so it’s definitely worth trying as a last resort.
Part 10: If all else fails
If, after numerous calibration attempts, you can’t get a result you like, you have four options:
They’re the experts, after all. See if they have a solution for you. Maybe you’ve got some kind of graphics card glitch, or something.
Lower your expectations
Choose the best calibration, and live with it.
Make a frank assessment about the quality of your monitor. If it’s a bit old, or rather cheap, or both, maybe it’s time to bequeath it to the kids, and buy yourself a better one. General info about monitors here.
If you’re confident that your screen is new enough, and of high enough quality, then you should consider spending some extra money on a higher-level calibrator that gives more control over colour.
Part 11: Regular recalibration
After one month has passed, the Spyder software will remind you to recalibrate.
If you’ve installed a new version of the software in that time, you’ll need to go through all of the above steps again. However, if nothing has changed, you can quickly recalibrate by simply choosing “Full Calibration” from the Go menu: